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For our second "get it and go" dinner, we tried an appetizer portion of Lebanese sausage slices in tomato sauce and lemon juice, which made a zesty pita filler. We also got fish in tahini sauce. The onions, black olives, and tomatoes that were sautéed with the fish were a nice compliment, but the tahini sauce had an unappealing, thick, peanut butter consistency. We ate the fish but left most of the sauce.

A side dish of broad green beans was plain but satisfying. The beans were cooked in a tomato sauce until they were very soft. Potatoes drenched in lemon juice with red peppers and cilantro were excellent after I sprinkled some crunchy sea salt on them. Our second dinner wasn't as good as the first, and I think we will order the spectacular shawarmas and kabobs rather than the iffy fish dishes in the future.

When my daughter came home from college a while back, she took off with her friends one night. She said they had been to a cool restaurant on Richmond where everybody smokes hookahs and hangs out. After my first visit to Mary'z, I realized that this is the place she was talking about. She couldn't tell me a thing about the food, because she and her friends just drank tea and shared a hookah.

Your impression of Mary'z Lebanese Cuisine will depend on who you are. For Lebanese food lovers, it's one of the best Middle Eastern eateries in the city. For the club-hopping set, it's a cool place to hang out, smoke a hookah and check each other out. And if you happen to be a young scene-maker who smokes tobacco and is hungry for great Lebanese food, you'll have it all.

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